Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

 

High-performance O/W emulsifier, co-emulsifier and surfactant
This high-purity emulsifier makes (almost) every emulsion a success and boosts other emulsifiers even at the lowest concentrations, or it can be used as a mild co-surfactant in cleansing formulations.

INCI
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Natural cosmetics compliant
Natrue

Item number
EM011
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Characteristics

The strongest natural emulsifier available!

For oil-in-water emulsions, there is a multitude of emulsifiers with a wide variety of characteristics – whether rich or light – there is something for everyone. But sometimes the emulsifying power of the main emulsifier may not be enough, e.g., with very high or very low oil phases, or when interfering substances such as acids or salts are used.

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is a strong anionic emulsifier with nearly 100% active substance. It therefore contains no consistency agents but provides a light consistency in emulsions itself. It can be used in combination with all emulsifiers and emulsifier blends, boosting emulsifying power and ensuring high stability in emulsions. Even liquid products and fluids gain much greater robustness and are easier to create. Emulsions with low fat phases are generally difficult to make and can be usefully supplemented with this co-emulsifier.

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is very closely related to Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate and is chemically very similar. However, it is not produced from lauric acid, but from the longer-chain stearic acid. Therefore, it emulsifies as well as a surfactant but stabilizes as well as an emulsifier and is mild on the skin. For this reason, it ensures a very fine and uniform droplet distribution of the oil phase in emulsions.

This provides for:

• high stability
• increased viscosity
• creamier consistency
  
• bright white, opaque appearance

Furthermore, it improves the resistance of emulsions to interfering ingredients such as acids or salts and is also a valuable tool for stability improvement or trouble-shooting in this context. Pigments and sunscreens are also distributed more evenly and finely in the product, making Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate an excellent co-emulsifier for sun protection emulsions.

It imparts a very powdery-velvety skin feel to emulsions and improves the skin feel of many main emulsifiers by counteracting a sticky or greasy sensation, conveying a slightly dry character. This can be used to one's advantage, e.g., in hand creams or fluids for oily skin.

It can, however, also be used alone as the main emulsifier, in which case it should be used with consistency agents or co-emulsifiers. A classic, proven emulsifier mixture for DIY is the following combination:

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate + Cetearyl alcohol + Glyceryl stearate

Here are two simple example mixtures (the amounts can be slightly modified):

Lotions

• 10 - 15% oil amount
  
• 0.5% Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
• 1.5% Cetearyl alcohol
• 1.5% Glyceryl stearate

Creams:

• 15 - 20% oil amount
• 0.7% Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
• 2% Cetearyl alcohol
• 2% Glyceryl stearate

The amounts can be slightly modified, e.g., according to the oil amount.

Another interesting combination is with Emulblend Hydrofeel. This tends to form liquid emulsions, as it does not create dense structures in the emulsion. Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate boosts the consistency-building effect of Emulblend Hydrofeel. This allows for entirely different emulsions to be created with a melting-creamy consistency and a moisturizing-soft skin feel. Example:

• 15% oil amount
• 0.3% Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
• 3% Emulblend Hydrofeel

Furthermore, it can be used to produce light gel-fluids or gel-creams. E.g., in combination with Sepinov WEO. This can emulsify certain amounts of oil and, theoretically, does not require an emulsifier. By adding Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, the emulsifying effect is boosted, allowing for particularly light, fresh fluids to be created without a "real" main emulsifier. This is especially suitable for light and refreshing fluids. Example:

• 10% oil amount
  
• 0.2% Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
• 1% Sepinov WEO

Also interesting is its use as a surfactant in cleansing formulations. The fine powder dissolves easily in water and creates an extremely creamy and mild foam. It has sufficient cleansing power and leaves behind a very nourished, almost rich, velvety skin feel. It is characterized in the end product by the following advantages:

• increases consistency
  
• improves skin friendliness
• improves foam quality
• leaves a nourished skin feel
  

Therefore, it can excellently supplement solid and liquid surfactant products such as shampoo bars, cleansing powders, and shower gels. In liquid products, it should be dissolved in hot water (e.g., together with Sodium Coco-Sulfate).

Application concentration and processing

• 0.1 - 0.5% as a supporting co-emulsifier
  
• 0.5 - 2% as a main emulsifier (with consistency agents)
• 1 - 10% as a co-surfactant in surfactant formulations
• dissolve in the hot oil phase (does not dissolve clearly!)
  
• can also be dissolved in the water phase (even cold!)
  

Features at a glance

• high-performance, anionic emulsifier
  
• boosts the emulsifying power and consistency formation of a main emulsifier
• enables ultra-light emulsions (milks) with a low oil phase
• trouble-shooting for challenging emulsions
• low application concentration
• cold processing possible
• high tolerance (for hypoallergenic formulations)